Today I stood on a surfboard for the first time, and I was a natural π …
… disaster π π :D. But let me begin from the start.
At 9:45am we got picked up by the bus from MoJo Surf. It tooks us about 40 minutes to get to the beach.
On the way we passed Botany Bay and the driver told us that the first settlers were so eager to finally get solind ground under their feet again, they all jumped into the water. Unfortunately the bay was crowded by sharks, so many of them were eaten alive ^^ stupid. But he promised us not to encounter any sharks, in fact he hadn’t seen any himself in 15 years of surfing.
We finally arrived at the park were we left the bus and got our wetsuits. Then we were driven in 2 groups with a 4WD across the dunes onto the private beach. Absolutely awesome and so much fun!!!
The beach was quite empty, hardly anyone on the beach that covered a whole huge bay.
We got into our wetsuits and got a short theory lesson how everything works, which I’m not going to repeat here in detail.
Finally we went into the water and started surfing, and it was absolutely awesome!
With the help of our really cool aussie coaches Rowen and Owen (called Row and Ow), I managed my first ride π great feeling.
My next tries weren’t that great, and I was not satisfied with myself. But then we had lunch, and afterwards I continued without my wetsuit, and all of a sudden it worked π I rode bigger and better, and got a “dude, that was perfect!” from one of my coaches. So much fun, the water is really my element. Everyone told me it’s so obvious, when I’m in the water I feel at home.
Now I am really really really exhausted, but overly happy.
And how, finally, here is proof of my achievements π :
From 2011-05-20 Surfing. Posted by Philipp HΓΌbner on 5/20/2011 (40 items)
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